Dreamscape Kennel

 

   

I am going to explain the method we use for ear taping, this method as proven to be the most beneficial to us, but there is no guarantee it will work the same for you. If you are in doubt please contact your Veterinarian for further assistance.

Now that you have your new puppy, it is important you take proper care of the ears. Proper taping will ensure your puppy less stress and beautiful ears. It takes patience and persistence for success. Post your ears and leave them up 1 week, then take down and leave down for a few hours, or until they look like they are starting to fall, if they fall then you are going to be starting over from the beginning. Re-tape and leave them up again for 1 week, then take down. When the ears stand, you can leave them down until they start to drop, then re-post as before and leave them another week. Smell the ears regularly for scent of infection. NEVER post infected ears. Ear Taping the Doberman Pinscher You will need:

2-Tampons - Depending on size of puppy you may need Slender, or Regular

Tape - Porous 1” Adhesive Tape

Skin Bond Glue - Can be purchased from our website for $10 for 1oz bottle

Powder

Someone to Help Hold the Puppy

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Step # 1: EAR PREPARATION

Clean the inside and outside of your Doberman's ears well with the alcohol. This is an extremely important step. A clean ear is far less likely to get infected and the alcohol removes the oil from the skin and makes the tape stick better. (NEVER, EVER USE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE ... it leaves the ears wet and infection can occur.) Clean the ears first so that when you get ready to post them the ears are good and dry.

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Step # 2: MAKING THE POSTS

Tampax make perfect posts for Doberman pups, you will start out with the slender and move your way up in size as your puppy grows. Place the tampon in the ear and cut off to fit.


Unroll a large length of tape from the roll (you don't need to cut it) and place it sticky side out at the top of the post, angled slightly downward. Take your other short piece of tape and secure the long tape to the post. Wrap in a spiral action (like a barber's pole) all the way down the post, overlapping each layer a little to insure the post is completely covered, sticky-side out. Cut length off at the bottom to fit the post. Repeat with post # 2.

 

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Step #3: The Glue

Next you will want to take some skin Bond glue and coat the inside of the ears. Let the glue set up for a minute or so to allow it to get tacky.

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Step # 4: POSTING THE EARS

Pre-cut several strips of tape. Cut two approximately 3 inches long and two more approximately 5 inches long. Tack them on the edge of the table so they'll be handy. By now the pup has figured out something is going on. Go get him (NEVER CALL HIM TO YOU ... Go get him. (Calling a dog to you to do something it doesn't like will result in a dog who won't ever come when called) Note the structure of the ear. See where it attaches at the top of the head? Notice the ear folds back a little in a natural fold. That is an important crease. It gives support to the ear. When you tape you need to be sure you tape this fold in place. Many try and wrap the ear forward to eliminate this fold. That is a mistake and will inhibit the progress of the ear standing. Hold the ear taut and taking care not to stick the ear to the post, place the post deep in the 'pocket' of the ear.

Pull the ear up tight, and smooth and massage the ear firmly against the tape.
Holding the ear against the post to prevent it slipping, wrap one of the shorter pieces of tape around the top of the ear and post. DO NOT WRAP TO
TIGHTLY. It really isn't necessary to be tight, and doing so will cut off the blood circulation to the tip of the ear and that is BAD NEWS. Next grab one of the longer pieces of tape and place just above where the post disappears into the ear and wrap back over the top of the head ... that is toward the center, around behind the ear and back toward the front. Make sure the ear crease is maintained and make sure the tape is not so tight as to impair circulation. Repeat the process with the other ear.

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Step # 5: BRACING THE POSTED EARS

You'll need to prepare a brace to ‘stabilize’ the posted ears. This is a must particularly on very active puppies. This is a step you can do beforehand, if you wish. If not, get someone to hold the puppy and restrain him from attempting to undo your handiwork while you make the brace.

Estimate the distance between the puppy's erect ears. Cut a long piece of tape, approximately 10 or 12 inches long.

About center, you'll want the Supporting brace that goes between the ears. Cut the tape half way at the points you deem are the outside edges of the support brace. Next trim away the top part of either side: Now fold the middle in half, sticky-side to sticky-side, to form a double thickness of tape ... that makes the middle support brace.

Next trim away the top part of either side:

Now fold the middle in half, sticky side to sticky side, to form a double thickness of tape ... that makes the middle support brace.

Now you have a strip of tape that is sticky on the end pieces and non-sticky in the middle.

Place the edge of the center brace about even with the center of the inside of the posted ear and wrap the brace tape around the post along the same path as the post's bottom piece of tape, and secure as tape length requires to the brace. Repeat with the other ear. Now take a couple of small strips from the pieces you cut off of the brace tape and wrap around the brace close to the ear to prevent the brace from pulling away from the posted ear ... repeat on other side.

Take talcum powder and lightly dust the exposed sticky post to prevent dirt, twigs and stuff from adhering to the post. You're done!

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Glue Removal

When it is time to take the ears down, use alcohol to release the glue. Never try and rub the glue off, this will cause the ears to fall. After the ears have been standing by themselves for at least 2 weeks you can start to work on cleaning the glue off the ears, but take it easy.

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